Tree-climbing Lions

Tree climbing lion

After our incredible experience with the gorillas, we returned to Lake Bunyonyi for another day before leaving for Queen Victoria National Park further north in Uganda. This park is known for its tree-climbing Lions. After speaking to locals and reading many a blog, we chose a different mountain pass through the rainforest to the one we drove to Bwindi to see the gorillas. We were in awe at the scenery on this pass and stopped many times to take photographs. The road on this pass had been carved out of the side of the mountain. The trees formed a natural canopy over the road. On the one side we had the mountain towering over us, and on the other side the mountain dropped away severely, but still covered with enormous trees and lush rainforest vegetation. In most places the road was so narrow that only one vehicle could be negotiated at a time. it would have been nearly impossible to reverse our trailer and caravan down this pass! Vehicles that had the misfortune of leaving the road involuntary, would most probably not have been able to be recovered. This beautiful mountain pass climbed up to over 2800m. It was an exciting but dangerous, impassable pass, in rainy conditions. Our Angels were looking after us! A decision was made not to return via this route due to inceasing rain and resultant landslides. This was later confirmed by locals from the area. Be it may, we were glad to have driven this wonderful mountain pass. 

The narrow road on the pass

  Outside of the National Parks the mountains had been cultivated in terraces up to 2000m and more. These were mostly covered by tea plantations and the farms of local inhabitants. These subsistant farmers grew bananas, maize, and various other traditional crops. Farms could only be reached by foot, by either climbing up or down the mountain. Because of the steep slopes, large terraces had to be cut out of the mountain to enable a family to build a house. This is all done by hand! As in the rest of Africa, the women and children appear to do the work! When we reached QVNP it was already late afternoon. At the entrance we were informed that it would cost us R4500 per day to enter and camp inside the Park. The lady at reception was helpful and informed us of accommodation a few kilometers outside the park where we could camp. As we left to investigate the possibilities, it started raining.  We ended up ' @on the river Ishasa'. Being the only visitors we were able to negotiated a full board and lodging price which sounded better and better as the rain got worse! We were very comfortable in our lodgings on stilts overlooking the river. The next day all 4 of us got into Steve's cruiser (a $50 saving by using one vehicle) and went looking for the famous Tree-Climbing Lions. We were surprised to find large herds of buffalo in this area. And yes, we did find 2 tree-climbing Lions (and they were in two separate trees!). There is much speculation why the lions in this park climb the trees. It could be because it's cooler high up in the trees or to get away from tsetse flies and mosquitos. They do look very comfortable and safe in their elevated positions. A ranger later informed us that we were lucky to have seen the lions, as there had not been a sighting for 2 weeks! We also saw hundreds of Topis (an antelope similar to our Red Hartebeest). Monkeys and birds that we have never encountered before, and which you only find in Uganda, continued to surprise us.

Tree climbing lion

  The second day we drove through the QVNP to the Equator in Uganda (and took pictures to prove that we were there!) It poured with rain and we were both elated and sad. From this point on we were turning around, heading South again - homeward bound to our beloved South Africa. Two familiar figures drove pass us on our way back to our lodgings. We turned around and caught up with them. It was Helen and Jimmy from The UK, touring through Africa on their motor bikes. We met them at Lake Bunyonyi. They also went over that treacherous pass and had some bad luck with punctures! We exchanged hugs, wished them Bon voyage and a safe journey. We have met amazing people while travelling through Africa. This couple had (understandably) limited packing space, and their lodgings every night is a thin little tent. At one stage their tent was ripped, trashed and completely fouled by baboons. Jimmy seems to be very good with a needle and thread. Maybe we'll meet again….......

Helen And Jimmy